This trip was something of a follow-on to last year’s Grand Canyon jaunt. Originally we had hoped to combine both canyons into one trip. After all the Grand Canyon is only 162 miles down the road from Zion.

After a bit of reflection though, we decided the wiser course would be to make two trips, and thereby give ourselves time to linger. No regrets.

Sharon and I were able to nab a historic cabin in the heart of Zion. The trick is to reserve way ahead of time. As it turned out, 6 months in advance was cutting it close. Few cabins were to be had, but we got ours.

It turns out that each cabin has two double beds. We only needed one.  Why not invite our friends David and Susan?

Buena idea.

The closest major airport to Zion is in Las Vegas, Nevada and only a 2.5 hour drive.

After a careful review of rental car options, Sharon and I went with an Alamo compact.  No need to get fancy. Best to save the pennies for other indulgences.

On arrival in Vegas we checked in with the Alamo desk. Yes, we did get the weekly 20% discount and all. Paperwork in hand, we made our bleary way to the car pick-up.

A couple of rather dubious looking Hispanic Alamo employees seemed to be in charge. Off-handedly, they pointed us to an aisle and said, “Take any car you want.”

I was stunned by the first big white snazzy car in the lane- which clearly wasn’t a compact. Went back and asked again if we could take any car. Got the same response, but this time with the added “ Yeah, we gave you a complimentary upgrade.”

Who were we to argue.

To Sharon’s credit, she wasn’t dazzled by numero uno, but had noticed the next car- a black Prius. Well they did say, “Any car.”  This would do and promised to be very entertaining- if we could figure out how to turn it on.

With some help from the guys I got the car “started.” For those of you who have never driven a Prius, “started” isn’t the same as with a gas-only vehicle. No reassuring motor sound. The dash simply lights up and that’s it. No key, per se, either.

And we were off to Whole Foods Las Vegas to shop for trail food. We watch a lot of CSI Las Vegas, and they didn’t show these particular neighborhoods passed through en route.

Un-synced traffic lights give one  time to contemplate the stores delivering rubber, leather, sex toys, for all persuasions and– at best prices in a strip-mall setting.

In any case it wasn’t long before we hit the walled country club section of Vegas-  Whole Foods wasn’t far off.

I had imagined what Whole Foods Las Vegas might be like. It was all that and more. Big, clean, new and stocked to the rafters with wholesome treats. People-watching was pretty good too. Lots of successful monied Vegas types in street clothes. I had a great time shopping. Am not so sure about Sharon.

As we drove out of Vegas into the desert in our new Prius, nibbling Whole Foods sushi, we got our second wind. Cambridge was fading.

Private vehicles are no longer allowed in the heart of Zion. Shuttle busses provide access. There is an exception though. Those staying in cabins or the lodge get a red pass providing special vehicular access and special parking privileges.

On the way into Zion, we picked up our red pass at the Zion Visitor’s Center and then proceeded to drive on in, feeling like a VIPs. Not surprisingly there was virtually no vehicular traffic in the Park and plenty of parking when we got to the lodge.

When we walked into the lodge, it was really dark. All of southern Utah was experiencing a power outage. Staff was on manual and more than a bit stressed – computers were down.

As we headed out of the lodge, the lights came back on. Folks clapped.

Luck of the power-outage draw had given us cabin #514, which, as it turned out, was just about perfect.

One of our many mistakes at the Grand Canyon had been tackling the toughest hike on our first day before our bodies had acclimatized to the elevation. This time we were wiser. Hiking at 4000 to 6500 feet above sea level is best approached slowly, particularly when you live at sea level.

On our first full day Sharon and I took it easy with shortish hikes- the Emerald Pools and   Riverside. We also explored the Visitor’s Center and the Human History Museum.

We got more serious on our second day. By 8:00 AM we were climbing up to Hidden Canyon- 850 feet above the valley floor. The trail climbs quickly through a series of switchbacks and staired sections, then across the face of cliffs where the trail has been cut from solid stone with long drop-offs. A chain has been installed to help where the trail narrows to a few feet. This was serious. I didn’t look down. The trail guide notes: “long drop-offs. Not for anyone fearful of heights.” No argument there.

The official trail ends at the beginning of Hidden Canyon. We didn’t stop, but continued up canyon looking for the mini free standing arch we had read about. We met another near elderly guy who had just turned back when faced with a short free boulder climb. He was a photographer disappointed by the morning light.

We climbed the section that had intimidated him, but not before some reflection on our limits. Then a bit further we had another climb and another moment of reflection.

As we ventured further up the canyon, the climbs became progressively more challenging, until we hit one which was a bit much. To our (Sharon’s) credit we turned back.

We soon met a 30-something-ish couple coming up the canyon. It was clear to me that these two were the real canyoneering deal. My intuition was confirmed when they launched into technical climbing speak when asked about how the canyon could connect with other trails on the upper plateau.

I explained that the free-climbing had been a bit challenging for us: “Sharon didn’t like it, but she did it anyway.” The woman lit up and laughed and gave Sharon a knuckle-to-knuckle, woman-to-woman punch greeting, and said, “I hated it too the first time. But I did it… and now I’m addicted.”

She liked Sharon’s attitude. As we continued down the canyon, I could hear her knowing laughter echoing back.

At this point the sunlight broke down through the canyon, washing the carved multi-colored sandstone walls. The photographer need only have waited another 45 minutes or so.

Back at the cabin in the afternoon, Sharon and I were bathed and presentable when a knock on the door announced the arrival of David and Susan. Great to see old friends. Doubly so in such environs.

Whereas Sharon and I are confirmed empty nesters, David and Susan are not. They had to leave a couple of teenagers at home on their own. All rose to the challenge. And challenges there were. This might have been the trip of the infamous party reported by the neighbors. I’ll leave it at that.

Consensus was Observation Point was the appropriate hike for the new group’s first full day. Round trip mileage- 8 miles. Elevation gain 2150 feet (655 meters). A strenuous hike of 7 hours round trip. Worth the effort. Great views.

Good cell phone reception too from Observation Point, which is a bit ironic because in the heart of the Park reception is lousy.  So there we sat, way and gone, while David and Susan phoned home.

We shared Observation Point with a dozen or so other hikers. The most memorable of which was “Mr. Tight Pants.”  This guy had the tightest spandex hiking shorts imaginable. Little was left to the imagination from front or back. And he strutted when he walked.

Our party was split as to whether he was the Gay Uncle or European. Personally, I think European- with no hint or clue of the image he was projecting. In any case, he clearly felt very good about himself and his physique.

Our other two long hikes were in the Zion Kolub canyons- Gorgeous, creek-side hikes through rolling riparian flood plains, surrounded by huge cottonwood trees and towering walls of red sandstone.

The Lee Pass to Kolub Arch Trail was the most challenging: 14 miles/ 8 hours. Kolub Arch is billed as “Possibly the world’s largest freestanding arch.”

It’s big, but curiously it’s not obvious when you get there. The trail ends with a sign, “Further Travel Not Recommended. Please Help Prevent Erosion and Vegetation Destruction.”

Someone had scratched below “Arch” with an arrow. Someone else in tiny letters had noted “Look Up”- which worked perfectly. Very very funny when standing there wondering where was the world’s largest arch?

“Look Up”

Our second Kolub hike was Taylor Creek: 5 miles/ 4 hours. This was all fun. Easy going, scenic and we saw some Eagles too.

I had visited Zion twice in the late 1950s with my mother when I was 8 and 10 years old or so.  We stayed in the near-by town of Mt. Carmel. My Mom had an older arty friend Edith (Hamlin) Dale. I knew her as Edie.

She lived in San Francisco on top of a hill. I remember visiting and looking through her painting rack off the living room. Mostly Maynard Dixon, Edie’s second husband. Big paintings. Even as a kid I knew I was looking at the real deal.

My Mom would say, “Edie is Maynard’s biggest booster. If he becomes famous, she’ll profit big time.”

These paintings now hang in museums. The man had talent, as did Edie. A story for another time.

Edie summered in Mt. Carmel and had invited us to stay at her place.

Edie and Maynard Dixon built the Mt. Carmel place as a summer retreat. It was great- funky and arty- complete with a log cabin, guest house and art studio.

The main room of the cabin held a remarkable collection of Indian artifacts. Headdresses, spears and so forth. Maynard was friends with lots of native folk. I think I have a photo somewhere, I need to dig it out.

A couple of years ago I was fantasizing about owning property in the Utah Canyonlands. What ever happened to that great little property? It took me about 3 minutes on the internet to find out.

In the last 50 years, Maynard had indeed become famous and his property as well.

Maynard had run with the Ansel Adams/ Imogene Cunningham crowd in San Francisco. The Modernist Bohemians of the day.

Maynards wife before Edie had been Dorothea Lange. Dorothea was probably not the best of matches for Maynard, but by all accounts, Edie was.

In any case I thought it would be fun to see the Mt. Carmel place again since we were going to be in the area, so I dropped the Thunderbird Foundation, which now owns the property, an email. One thing led to another.

My Mom had some (what are now) historic photos of our time in Mt.Carmel, which led to some most interesting conversations and ultimately a dinner invitation and an invitation to visit Edie’s place in Mt. Carmel.

It was most curious to re-visit after almost 50 years. Paul and Susan Bingham of the Thunderbird Foundation were most gracious hosts and generous with their time and energy.

I shared my favorite story which curiously they hadn’t heard. Vladimir Nabokov had written parts of “Lolita” in the house, which he had rented from Eddie in 1948 or thereabouts. He was in Utah with his wife Vera collecting butterflies.

Vera was quite the character. Not only did she edit and type Nabokov’s manuscripts, she served as his chauffeur, and body guard. She carried a gun.

I have been trying to reconstruct how my Mom met Edie. I know it was in Santa Barbara. I think my recently-separated Mom was dating Edies’ third ex-husband, Frank Dale, who was a musician/composer. Suspect a modernist, but that’s only a guess.

In any case my Mom met Edie and they hit it off. Soon thereafter we headed north to San Francisco, and Edie put us up for a bit at her place. Curious how the world works.

On our last day on the Zion trails, Sharon and I found ourselves behind a Spanish speaker. Sharon struck up a very Latin conversation.

Afterwards Sharon explained that he was from Quito Ecuador. He had said we should come see him.

Although a joke, it got us thinking again about Quito and the Galapagos. ¿Por qué no?

Our test of a good vacation is whether we want to go back. The answer for Zion is a resounding Yes, but our list is long, and life is short.

Vamos a ver. We shall see.

Zion Narrows, the grandfather of all slot canyons, has been talking to me. A world class canyon hike following the Virgin River. We had hoped to venture in on this trip, but the river wasn’t cooperating.

Flow was up at 250 CFS. Access is allowed at 140 CFS or so. Ideal conditions are under 70 CFS. Talking it over with Park Rangers, late September looks like the best bet. This year is out, 2009 or 2010 looks doable.

After the Narrows, the Subway is #2. The Subway is also a slot canyon but located in the Kolob Terrace section of Zion. A permit and some orienteering skills are required. Maybe we should take that canyoneering course?