The second leg of our pilgrimage took us through the Kochi Prefecture. Not a bright lights/ big city experience, as befits the pilgrimage stretch traditionally known for teaching the value of Austerity & Discipline, or Ascetic Practice.

We liked Kochi. Not everyone does. 

Long stretches of road with nothing but ocean on one side and mountains on the other. Locals in Kochi have the reputation for being blunt and no nonsense. Worked for us.

Not a tourist destination. No through traffic, famous places or big cities. By and large, hard-working rural coastal folks. 

Curiously I felt right at home in this landscape. Crashing Pacific waves. Rock cliffs to the ocean. 

We could have been on the Northern California Coast. Which accounting for continental drift we kind of were.

We would spend 8 days in Kochi. We would ride west and south along the Pacific Ocean in two sweeping arcs. The first ending at Cape Murato and Temple 24. And the second ending at Cape Ashizuri and Temple 38, the southernmost tip of Shikoku Island.

From there we would head north cutting inland to Temple 39 and emerging once again on the ocean. Not the Pacific but the Bungo Channel leading to the Uwa Sea between Shikoku and the Japanese island of Kyushu.

No longer newbies, we had settled down. We pushed through as best we could. Ascetic training, if you will. Ate our share of humble pie.

The temples were fantastic, but just as important were the roads from one to the next. And that experience, for better or worse.

Lao Tzu put it another way,

A good traveler has no fixed plan, and is not intent on arriving”

So hard to accept.

We kept to our schedule in the big picture, but only through the kindness of strangers and a bit of blind luck. Kobo Daishi’s specialty.

Day 11 October 18 Friday; Minami Town to Minshuku Tokumasu. No Temples.  

After an early breakfast we loaded the bike in our rear garden. 

We wound our way back through Minami town to highway 55 and turned left at Yakuoji, Temple 23. 

Wayfinding would be easy for a few days at least. Stay on 55. Ocean to the left. Mountains to the right.

Some pretty remarkable scenery

Below is a well-cared for shrine perhaps 10 feet off the road. Main guy is Avolokiteshvara, the embodiment of compassion and mercy. 

We were riding through a Tsunami Inundation area. Which meant, if the big waves are on their way, you better run- Uphill ASAP – or kiss your ass goodbye.

Weather had been threatening, but we were spared, at least for today. Tomorrow and the next day, we weren’t so lucky. Another typhoon was on the way. 

We pulled into our inn for the night, Minshuku Tokumasu, on schedule, late afternoon. 

Great place. Great folks. The 98 year old great-grandmother was special. She kept the veggie garden, worked the laundry and still used her bicycle to get around. 

Her grandson was a surfer and all-round good guy.

His wife, Chisato had been doing the pilgrimage and they fell in love and married.

Previously she had been working for JP Morgan in Tokyo. Good English. Charming.

Family Foto below

It was Red Snapper for us for dinner. From that day’s catch. They hoped we would like it. Sheesh. Best I’ve ever had. Veggies from Great Grandma’s garden.

Day 12 October 19 Saturday; Minshuku Tokumasu to the Tonohama area. 3 temples.

24 Hotsumisakiji 最御崎寺 Muroto, Kōchi
25 Shinshōji 津照寺 Muroto, Kōchi
26 Kongōchōji 金剛頂寺 Muroto, Kōchi

Sharon says it rained all night. I wouldn’t know I was out. At dawn the rain had let up and the sky seemed to be clearing. 

That didn’t last long and by breakfast it was pouring once again.

Chisato tried to talk us out of riding, but we knew our schedule was tight. We loaded up the bike, put on our rain gear and headed out the door. 

We took a long pause under the overhang at the front door, waiting for a break in the downpour. 

When we got to drizzle, we waved goodbye and were off. 

Our first stop was Meoto Rock, or Couples Rock. Judging by the debris, the relationship hadn’t been smooth sailing. 

Our first Typhoon had hit this area hard. Chisato had told us that waves were washing across the highway. Great Grandmother had said she had never seen that in her lifetime.

We had some shots of blue sky as the storm seemed to pull back.

Jean Phillipe back in Minami Town, had told us to keep an eye out for a graveyard dedicated to men lost at sea. One of his memorable places and not marked on maps. We found it, stopped and spent some time. 

The guys below are looking out over the water. Quite soulful.

After Sharon passed along snacks to the stray cats hanging out, we were on our way.

Skies were clearing by late morning. Roads were smooth and traffic was light as we approached Cape Muroto and Temple 24, Hotsumisakiji, at the tip. 

Cape Muroto is known for its high winds, big waves, tropical plants and geology – uplifted marine terraces and active thrust faults. It’s also known for the place that Kukai reached enlightenment and took the name Kukai. The temple was founded in 805.

The road up to Temple 24 was switchbacked steep, perhaps a 1000 ft above the highway. We were expecting the climb, the road was in good shape and the views were spectacular.

The Temple itself was pretty great, but we didn’t linger. We paid our respects at the halls, admired the pagoda below, banged on the ringing rock and headed for the temple office.

It was a quiet morning. The guys were kicked back and enjoying themselves. Our books taken care of, they admired Sharon’s shoulder bag water proofing. 

“Nice tight plastic bags. Well done”

After tightening up our brakes we descended back to highway 55. Next stop Temple 25, Shinshoji.

First though we had a bit of riding up the coast. This was an ocean-oriented world.

Temple 25 was an easy approach. No 1000+ foot climbs. We just rode right up. 

After passing through the main gate, and washing purification at the wash basin, we looked for the bell to mark our arrival. But it was nowhere to be seen. 

On the way back down from the main hall, we found the bell. It was upstairs in that red gate behind Sharon in the photo above.

Here’s the view from up there.

Back on highway 55, we headed to Temple 26, Kongoshoji, not far up the road. Another steep switchbacked climb.

Late afternoon we rolled into our inn for the night, Minshuku Tonohama, the least elegant of our inns. As Jean Phillipe said when he made our reservation, there aren’t any good choices in Tonohama. 

Minshuku Tonohama had its own charmless charm. A most helpful host making the best of an inn recently inserted underneath what had been a un-inspired generic wedding hall. 

Complete with traditional Japanese floor toilets.

We were comfortable enough, not being particularly proud or picky, but I was worried about the next day. Not only were we facing the tough climb to Temple 27 right off, but then we had another 5 temples and 50+ miles on top of that. 

No way we were going to make it. Not a chance. A failure of planning – on my part.

The solution- a Taxi. Up to Temple 27, Konomineji, and back. And then we would ride. 

Even so the next day would be an adventure. 

Day 13. October 20 Sunday; Tonohama to T33. 6 temples.

27 Kōnomineji 神峰寺
28 Dainichiji 大日寺 Konan , Kōchi
29 Kokubunji 土佐国分寺 Nankoku, Kōchi
30 Zenrakuji 善楽寺 Kōchi, Kōchi
31 Chikurinji 竹林寺 Kōchi, Kōchi
32 Zenjibuji 禅師峰寺 Nankoku, Kōchi

We were up early and after breakfast, our innkeeper arranged for a taxi. The taxi driver was a good guy and most entertaining. All started off well. He jumped out and held the door for Sharon.

And up we went.

Our taxi driver agreed to wait in the parking lot. We headed in. Here’s Sharon getting ready to wash her hands.

After purification rituals, we headed up again.

The Temple was well cared for. We paid our respects. 

and headed back down.

Back in the taxi, we descended.  We had to wait for this van to three-point the turn. Too steep, too tight.

Perhaps this was the section that Jean Phillipe back in Minami Town said the front wheels of his camper came off the ground. His advice was spot on, no need to try this one on your tandem.

Back at Minshuku Tonohama, we loaded our bike and headed up the coast. Soon we were passing Tsunami Evacuation Towers like this one.

After the Great East Japan earthquake in 2011, the Kochi government constructed many. Kind of sobering to imagine the waves washing over the town, while those who made it to the top deck watch their world wash away. 

That said, better than the alternative. 

And this could happen at any time. Not lost on us.

As we rode up the Coast we had sections of smaller roads off highway 55. Good stuff. The photo below is two way. FWIW, our experience was that Japanese drivers were courteous and careful negotiating such. 

Taxis were another matter altogether. They just blasted through. Best to just pull off. 

Mid-morning in Aki City we hit the Cycling Road along the Tosa Bay to Konan. Great ride. A Japanese rail trail. Sharon found Prickly Pear Cactus fruit, which pleased her no end.

Wide open beaches.

Complete with what we think was a Shinto event.

And what looked like a Japanese variant of Bocci Ball.

Around noon we were at Temple 28, Dainichiji.

Now this is a manhole cover.

Next up was Temple 29, Kokubunji.

And then Temple 30 Zenrakuji. Altho the photo below is of the Shinto shrine, Tosajinga, next door.

We don’t have any photos of Temple 31 Chikurinji. Time was slipping away and we still had another Temple to go before 5 PM when the temple offices close.

We raced for Temple 32 and made it with just 5 minutes to spare. On the way out we turned on our headlight. It was getting dark.

In my frazzle, I had forgotten about our ferry crossing. We swept up next to Urado Bay. Sharon started shouting, “Turn right, Turn right.”

Couldn’t be right, right was just water.

Well actually, it could be “Right”, if you were on a ferry.

We looped back and waited for the ferry with a charming young couple with dilated eyes. Perhaps 16 or 17. He lived on the other side of the Bay. She was seeing him off. They held hands.

The ferry, no cars-allowed, eventually arrived and we headed across. Remarkable transition from twilight to night.  

It was night when we reached the other side.

A mile or so later we were at our inn, Kochi-ya, directly opposite from Temple 33, Sekkeiji.

When we checked in, the question was bath or food, first? Dinner was in full swing. 

Food trumps presentability.

So we sit down and start in on yet another great meal. We start chatting with another pilgrim, a European woman sitting next to us. 

It soon became clear that we had crossed some indefinite line and now had pilgrimage cred.

“So where did you start?” 

“Tokushima?”

“When?” 

“ Eight days ago”

“On a bicycle?”

The rest of the table looked up.

“Yep”

After dinner, after our bath, Sharon was pleased with her Yukata and warming vest. Weather was turning colder. After all, it was October 20. 

Day 14. October 21 Monday; Temple 33 to Susaki City. 4 temples.

33 Sekkeiji 雪蹊寺 Kōchi, Kōchi
34 Tanemaji 種間寺 Haruno, Kōchi
35 Kiyotakiji 清滝寺 Tosa, Kōchi
36 Shōryūji 青竜寺 Tosa, Kōchi

This was the day of the Cat Lady’s Inn, though we had 4 temples to visit, before arriving.

First we visited Temple 33, Sekkeiji, across the street. Photo below from outside our door on the second floor of our inn. 

Next up was Temple 34, Tanemaji a bit before 10 AM.

Along the way to Temple 35, we passed this front yard extravaganza.

Pretty amusing and lots going on. There was a real dog just behind the turntable. He was barking to us. Sharon really wanted to walk across the yard and make friends. I knew from experience that this would involve petting and scratching. I always imagine the worst.

I’m sorry now I lobbied against the move, and that she listened to me. Mr Dog probably was mostly harmless and friendly.

It was another narrow, steep, switchbacked climb to Temple 35, Kiyotakiji. 

We arrived a shade before noon. The Temple was great. Lots of character.

But the big hit was the antique fully operational Fire Truck. Temples are mostly wood. Lots of open flames about such as candles. Fires are an ongoing problem.

We chatted some with a Japanese Pilgrim, we had gotten to know on the road over the last few days. A good guy. He was fast, but ultimately we were faster, even with our day off.

We descended and rode along the coast towards Temple 36, Shoryuji. A pretty Temple,

With a long stair.

The photo below was taken around 4 PM on our way into Susaki City and our inn for the night. Weather had been spitting, but all was well. We were going to make it with time to spare.

We crossed the Sakura River and turned left. Our bike computer had decided to send us into the heart of the main port proper and I never corrected that. So we had an up close ride along really really big ships and really really big cranes, and mountains of logs, literally.

A right turn and a couple of blocks later we knew we were close to our inn, but couldn’t get oriented. 

Sharon asked a gas delivery guy, who indicated we should just follow him. So we drafted up tight as he roared off, and a few turns and a few blocks later arrived at Guest House Doubutso Sudomari, home of the Cat Lady.

We weren’t entirely sure though that we were there. Neighbors were about so we asked them. Yep, we were in the right place.  

Mom and her 20’s/ 30’s son in a wheelchair. They were clearly bored, and we were a welcome diversion. They knew all about the pilgrimage and were into it and into our journey. Offered us cash osettai. We accepted, bowed and Sharon gave the proper response in Japanese. Good Folks. 

Jean Phillipe back in Minami Town had made our reservations for this night. He had given us the heads up that our hostess might not be home when we arrived, and that we should just go on in and make ourselves at home.

So we did.

First step was to introduce ourselves to the cat on the first floor. 

We found our room and settled in. 

It wasn’t long thereafter that the Cat Lady, Mayuyu, arrived home from work. 

Mayuyu was great. Shortly thereafter she and Sharon headed off for the grocery store. We had the first floor guest kitchen to ourselves and Sharon put together a great dinner.

And we ate off of Cat Plates and drank from Cat Mugs.

We were especially impressed with her Tiny Cat reading Sutras.

Mayuyu explained that she had received Ms Cat and her Sutras, as a gift from a pilgrim who had stayed at her inn, and then asked if we would like her. 

Of course!!! Great stuff. 

Today Tiny Cat reads her Sutras on our kitchen vitamin carousel between the Carnitine and Boswellia. An example for us all.

Day 15. October 22 Tuesday; Susaki City to Kuroshio. 1 temple.

37 Iwamotoji 岩本寺 Shimanto, Kōchi

On our way out the next morning, Mayuyu told us that one pilgrim had left their Sedge hat and never returned for it. So Sharon tried it on. 

And I got to confirm, that yes, my initial idea of somehow bicycling with a sedge hat over a bicycle helmet was indeed goofball all the way down. 

Mayuyu brought a favorite cat out to see us off. It has taken me a while to warm up to the photo below, but today I find it hilarious. 

Mayuyu is into it. Sharon is smiling, though resigned, I’m worried about Nanako Pass, and the tunnels ahead, and Ms Cat is seriously not happy about any of it.

Our ride for the day would take us inland up over Nanako Pass, along a high-ish plateau to Temple 37, followed by a descent back to the Pacific Ocean.

It would also be our first day of serious tunnels. Not a problem that day or any day.

All up, I am guessing we must have passed through well over 25 tunnels on this trip.

As it turned out these tunnels were great blessings. I had been worried, but I was wrong. Tunnels truly were our friends. 

Tunnels took us through the mountains, we otherwise would have had to climb over. 

It felt almost like cheating. Our bike computer didn’t do tunnels, it just said big climb ahead as we approached. As we rode, or walked, through the tunnel, Mr. Computer would show the profile of the mountain above. What’s not to like?

That’s not to say there weren’t dodgy moments. But we were careful and prepared. We had lights, front and back , and extra frame lights as insurance for the really dark, long, tight tunnels. 

First up was Kadoya Tunnel just out of Susaki City. We just rode through this one. Only a 1/4 mile or so. Traffic was relatively light. 

Next up was Yakezaka Tunnel, about a 1/2 mile in length. As I recall it was really dark, there was a rail and to be safe we walked most of it. 

We also wore the reflective vests provided in the box at the tunnel entrance. An honor system. Take one out on one side. Hang it back up in the box provided on the other side.

Nanako Pass was manageable. We were riding on Highway 56, and the grades were Highway grades, not crazy steep Mountain Temple grades.

We arrived at Temple 37, Iwamotoji early afternoon. Before heading in, we stopped for treats.

Temple 37 was an interesting collection of buildings – all shapes and sizes.

The Main Hall has 575 pictures on the ceiling.

Shortly after Temple 37, we stopped for lunch at a convenience store.

Once again, I was a bit worse for wear. We had parked Mr. Bike, and I was sitting on a curb when this pick-up pulls up. A middle-aged Japanese guy jumps out, hustles around to his cooler in the back, pulls out a couple of beers, strolls up, and offers them to me.

It took me a moment to realize what was going on. I was stunned, like pulling the arm of a slot machine and watching the wheels spin.

Then I got it. 

Osettai!

Very 21st century, and very appreciated. 

I could tell he wasn’t so sure about me. But when I bowed and mumbled, “Namu Daishi Henjo Kongo” three times. He nodded and laughed, hopped back in his pick-up and was off.

“Namu Daishi Henjo Kongo” translates roughly as “Homage to the great Teacher brilliant shining Diamond.” Or Homage to Kobu Daishi. And is the proper response on accepting Osettai.

We received many gifts as Osettai. Candies, meals, fruit, money, handwoven gloves and so forth. These beers were my favorite. 

It was clear we were pilgrims, as we were wearing the traditional white vests. Hence the Osettai.

Two things are going on with Osettai from the givers point of view. First, Ossettai gifts are kind of like giving alms. Helping the needy. 

Secondly, and most importantly, such gifts are symbolic gifts to Kobo Daishi, who symbolically, would bless the giver and give them a virtual third seat on our bike, now a triple. Or maybe it’s a quad, as Kobo Daishi has a seat too.

Our pilgrimage would become their pilgrimage with Kobo Daishi’s blessing. Great tradition, with the magic, living on into the 21st century. 

Even Kirin Beer works as Osettai.

Best not consumed while riding though. Appropriate though for sipping and watching the afternoon siip away and sun set into the Pacific Ocean, which is how it went at the end of the day at Hotel Umibozu, after the Yokohama and Inomisaki Tunnels.

We weren’t alone, Mr. Pick-up guy and Kobo Daishi seemed to be enjoying it too.

As was often the case, we had remotes for both our AC and lights.

Perfectly clear. Right?

“Hey Sharon. Can you get these to work?”

A grumble later, the AC and the lights were on.

Day 16. October 23 Wednesday; Bicycling Day 11; Kuroshio to Oki.  0 temples.

By now we knew our way around the Japanese Inn breakfast. A key move, immediately after retrieving the steaming rice, break the raw egg on top and stir it in. Don’t dawdle or it won’t cook.

We loaded up the bike and were on our way.

No Temples today, just a relatively level ride along the Pacific towards Cape Ashizuri. 

First we rode along a scenic stretch of beach with surf shops and surfers. Hello California.

We stopped for snacks mid-morning: Ice cream, potato chips, nuts & raisons, ice coffee and juice. 

Next up was the Shimanto River, the longest river in Shikoku and also the last undammed river in Japan. The river was wide and quiet when we crossed just before noon.

We met Lee Han Kok, a pilgrim from Singapore, at another convenience store on our early afternoon lunch break. He was about to head home. He could only get away for a short time.

A good guy. Sad story. Disabled brother. Parents with cancer. He was taking care of everyone, and exhausted on many fronts.

Lee said he was doing his pilgrimage for his family. We suspected he also desperately needed to get away for his own sanity. 

He had fallen on a trail, his phone was dead and he was lost. We did what we could to help.

We were making good time. Mid-afternoon we arrived at our inn for the evening, Minshuku Iburi Bar. 

Basically Iburi Bar, was a first floor spare room. And it came with a sprightly cat, Sophia, if you cared to host her, which of course, we did. Sophia had a sidekick Blackie, but he wasn’t interested in us.

Another Typhoon was bearing down on us. Perhaps it would miss us.

Perhaps not.

Day 17. October 24 Thursday; Bicycling Day 12 Oki to Tatsukushi. 1 temple.

38 Kongōfukuji 金剛福寺 Tosashimizu, Kōchi

We ate breakfast and lingered, hoping that the Typhoon would let up.

No such luck. This was a Florida+ rain. Florida rains are the heaviest I’ve ever seen. A Japanese typhoon rain is the next level up.

I didn’t see any alternative to just riding. Torrential rain and all.

Our hosts were appalled. And had a better idea. They knew a guy, who for a modest sum would drive our bike ahead to our next hotel in his pickup.

While our host would take us and our luggage. But first he would take us out to Temple 38, Kongofukuji. 

Thus our sorry asses were saved on Cape Ashizuri.

Temple 38 was pretty great. The rain only added atmosphere. 

We also visited the observation platform on the point of the Cape itself.

 And a local bike shop in the town of Tosa-Shimizu, just in case they might have our brake pads. No luck there. The owner was really old.

Our host told us the town was dying. Every year there are thirty people ± fewer.  

We were dropped off at our next hotel, Nangoku, early afternoon. I spent the afternoon snacking, sipping beer, watching the rain fall, contemplating the kindness of strangers, and wondering about what I had gotten us into.

And did I mention that the Nangoku Hotel was haunted?

We were the only guests and had been given a very nice room on the top floor. When I was ready for another beer, I’d wander downwards, stepping over extension cords which went who knows where. 

Pictures on the walls were faded and never quite level. Piles of this and that had been set down on tables or chairs in passing perhaps years ago and never moved again. 

The stair landed in the front lobby. Each time I came down, there were one or two elderly folks dead asleep in chairs. At least I think they were asleep. 

I’d head to the dining area and linger. Eventually a most elderly Japanese woman with sparkling eyes would appear soundlessly. 

I’d whisper the magic word, “Beeru”. She’d disappear and then re-apparate with a Kirin and a knowing smile. I’d make my way back past the dead asleep, and then up through the empty haunted halls and stairs to our room. 

The rain fell relentlessly. Light was dim.

Day 18. October 25 Friday; Bicycling Day 13 Tatsukushi to Sukumo. 1 Temple

39 Enkōji 延光寺 Sukumo, Kōchi

We woke the next morning to a bright new day. The storm had passed. View from our room below.

We headed downstairs for yet again another great breakfast. No bodies in the entry. 

We loaded Mr. Bike and headed out. Stopping for a pic of Hotel Nangoku in the sunshine. No ghosts in sight. Our room had been top right. 

We would be heading inland with climbs and roads off the coastal pilgrim route to Temple 39, Enkoji in Sukumo City. 

First we rode up along the Soro River. 

And then headed up through forests of tall conifers.

We had to wait at checkpoints before riding forward. There had been landslides and construction of new retaining structures was underway. My fear was that we would be told the roads were closed. 

But at each checkpoint we were waved through, eventually. 

As we continued climbing, we found ourselves alone in the forest. We were probably the first through here since the last typhoon. This road didn’t see a lot of traffic.

Eventually we crested and left the forest behind, as we descended back to civilization. Not much traffic though.

That would change once we took our left on highway 21.

First though, Sharon had to pet some goats. I averted my eyes.

Late morning we arrived at Umenoki Park. 

Early afternoon we arrived at our inn, Tsuruno-ya. We checked in, dropped off our bags and headed on to Temple 39, Enkoji. It was only a couple of miles down the road. Interesting place. Turtles all the way down.

Or at least a lot of turtle statues commemorating the turtle who, in 911, purportedly brought a red bell to Enkoji on it’s back from the ocean. 

As we walked though the gardens, all was quiet, except for a tiny voice wailing. A snake had a frog in its mouth. The frog was not going gently into its good night and was trying mightily to pull itself back out.

The frog didn’t make it and the snake slid away.

We paid our respects at the Main and Daishu Halls, and were moseying back to our bike, when a Japanese woman sweeping the gravel, pulled Sharon aside. 

I tagged along, first to the sacred 400+ year old juniper tree.

And then to the exhibition hall with Buddhist Art. This exhibition included both student’s and teacher’s work. Sharon’s new friend had a piece exhibited. 

Back at our inn, we settled into our room, took a shower and tub soak, and had yet another great dinner. 

The next day we would leave the prefecture of Kochi and start our journey through the prefecture of Ehime.

We were halfway through our trip. Our brake pads were getting rather thin. Our half-assed plan was Matsuyama City or Bust.

Matsuyama City was 8 days, and 20,000± feet of ascent and descent, away.

Link to next Shikoku Pilgrimage Post: Ehime