Concept

In April, we’re off to Peru to trek in the Andes.

We will stay in Cuzco in southeastern Peru for 5 days both to acclimatize to the altitude and explore.

Cuzco is 11,200 ft above sea level. Our trek will go up from there.

Our hotel in Cuzco offers oxygen for altitude acclimation. Our trek group carries oxygen as well.

Cuzco looks both fun and interesting. Cusco was the historic capital of the Inca Empire and is a UNESCO world heritage site.

Then we are off on a one-way 6 day trek, lodge-to-lodge, to Machu Picchu.  We will be part of a 10 to 12 person trekking group with a guide.

A first for us.

Our trek is being run by Mountain Lodges of Peru. MLP is a bit high-end compared to what we’re used to. But hey. They built the lodges and if you want to trek to Machu Picchu and sleep between sheets, there’s no alternative.

Sharon vetoed camping long ago.

Conceptually our trek lodging is a bit like Yosemite’s Ahwahnee Hotel every night in the Andes, but on a micro scale.

After all, it’s only money. If it’s going to be saltines in the rest home, well, so be it.

We booked 10 April as our trek start date as it still qualifies as “low” season and prices are significantly lower.

And besides, on this schedule we will cross the 15,213 foot high Salkantay pass on my 61st birthday. I find this amusing.

At least now.

Our trek could be easier than Switzerland. But then again, maybe not.

The wrinkle is the elevation. The highest we’ve hiked is 12,000 feet in Colorado.

Sharon is being very nice to humor me with this trip. I am going to make a special effort to visit many, many, many, many, many, museums. Cuzco looks ready to accommodate.

Our trekking route is not the classic Inca Trail, but another ancient trail called the “Salkantay Route” which also ends at Machu Picchu.

This Salkantay route crosses twelve different eco-zones in six days.

The trek consists of 6 days of moderate to strenuous hiking at elevations of 6,600- 15,000 ft on diverse types of trails ranging from flat and grassy to steep and rocky slopes.

Training

Hiking in Switzerland was humbling. We vowed that next time we’d be better prepared.

Our training for Switzerland didn’t account for the steepness of the trails. We didn’t have trouble with altitude- 9000’+ ; or the distances- 8 + miles. It was the 1000′ elevation gains or losses per mile that did us in.

We walk 20 to 25 miles/ week, but these are level miles. Whole other muscle sets come into play climbing and descending.

We both knew what we had to do.

We needed to join an athletic club.

With visions of stair climbers dancing in my head, I signed us up for Wellbridge Athletic Club in Harvard Square- mid January.

Wellbridge threw in 4 personal training sessions at no extra cost.

And thus began our training adventure.

Spunky is too light. Feisty is is probably closer.

When I told our trainer Amy that her bio wasn’t up on the Wellbridge site, Her response,

“This morning I told my boss I was going to make her cry and now I know how.”

Physically Amy’s probably 5′- 2″, psychologically, closer to 6′-2″. Her specialties: integrated functional core-based training, kenpo karate and kickboxing.

Amy’s one of those rare vegetarians, who was raised vegetarian. A vegetarian with attitude.

A couple of years ago her husband installed a semi-truck air horn in her mustang- for Valentine’s Day.

An Amy comment I’ve heard more than a few times now:

“You’re only as strong as your weakest link.”

It’s the little muscles, the stabilizer muscles that we’re focusing on. These muscles control balance and bio-mechanics.

We’re also working on core muscles around the body trunk. Not surprisingly, Sharon’s got stronger core muscles than I. When I shared this with Taavo (our son), his response:

“And regarding Abs and Ma: Core strength doesn’t come for free. Which is another way of saying that what you’ve got has a pretty direct relationship with the effort you put in. Which is another way of saying the fact that Ma is impossibly hardcore gives her a bit of an edge.”

Yes.

No stair climbers for us. That was wishful thinking on my part. For stair climbing, Amy has us outside in the New England winter climbing the steps at Mount Harvard (Stadium).

Sendero Luminoso (Shining Path)

Its curious how the subconscious works.

One day out of the blue, the image popped into my mind of Peruvian guerrillas armed with AK47s jumping out from behind some boulders as we sauntered along on our trek to Machu Picchu.

I swung around in my chair and asked my business partner JP,

“So whatever became of the Shining Path?”

Photo to right.

Shining Path being the bloodthirsty Peruvian Maoist revolutionary organization that copped so many headlines in the 1980s.

“I don’t know.”

After a pause, he chuckled and added, “I’ve got a tale for you.”

He and two other partners had an architectural practice in Boston in the 1980s.

One of his partners, Ray, was partial to “strategic” vacations. He and his ambitious wife would plan vacations around where they could go to rub shoulders with the rich and famous.

In the 1980s they met a fabulously wealthy couple who were heading to Machu Picchu to experience a total eclipse of the sun.

After all, when money is no object, what better place? Particularly if one has New Age leanings.

These were the years of the Harmonic Convergence. New Age leaders had designated Machu Picchu as one of earth’s power centers where spiritual energy was purported to be particularly strong.

Ray wasn’t interested in global synchronized meditation, but he could play along.

Apparently all this Age of Aquarius stuff was not lost on the Shining Path.

Why go searching for wealthy western hostage candidates one by one, when they will hike up to you in your mountains, by the dozens, gift wrapped?

This curious potential drama was also not lost on the USA State Department, which issued a terrorist warning.

The wealthy couple bailed. Ray lived on, to scheme for future vacations.

Not everyone was so lucky.

In 1986, a time bomb was detonated on the Cuzco to Aguas Calientes train to Machu Picchu, which resulted in 7 deaths. When the dynamite blew, the train was sitting in Cuzco.

Today, the Shining Path has pretty much withered away.

Or so they say.

Cuzco

From our guide book “The Inca Trail, Cusco and Machu Picchu”:

“Spectacular colonial architecture stands astride monolithic ruined Inca palaces made of perfectly hewn stone, which line atmospheric, scorched cobbled plazas. White-washed alleys and terracotta-tiled roofs house a rich mix of history, lively nightlife and a vast array of museums, sights and scenery. Although it’s embraced tourism and developed a sound infrastructure to support the influx of visitors, the city’s magnificent historical past still has a powerful hold on its glorious present. The collision and fusion of indigenous Andean and imported colonial cultures is fascinating and always evident, even to those tourists who come to the city only as a staging post for the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu.”

Those pre-trek tourists would be us. I am really looking forward to Cusco.

Cuzco looks like a great walking city. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is purported to be the undisputed archaeological capital of South America.

Cuzco was the historic capital of the Inca Empire (13th century-1532). The first Spaniards arrived in the city on 15 November 1533. And that was pretty much it for the Inca empire.

Superior arms and smallpox did them in.

While the Inca empire is long gone, Inca culture lives on.

Easter week, Semana Santa, is a big deal in Cuzco, including a great procession on Easter Monday, Lunes Santo, featuring Taytacha Temblores, the Black Lord of Earthquakes.

“This celebration is of particular interest because it allows onlookers to get a glimpse of the fusion of Andean religions and Christianity. The Cuzco Cathedral, where the image is kept, is built on the foundations of the ancient temple dedicated to the pagan god Apulla Tikse Wiracocha.

The image of the Lord of Earthquakes is borne aloft in a procession through the streets of the city just as the Incas used to parade the mummies of their chieftains, high priests and supreme rulers. In the end, the dominating part of the celebration involves the ñucchu flower (salvia esplendes), used as an offering to the ancient gods Kon and Wiracocha.

The same flower today is used to weave a crown for the Lord of the Earthquakes. This crimson colored flower, whose petals are scattered by the faithful over the venerated image, symbolizes the blood of Christ.”

Lunes Santo is the day before our trek. Our hotel is two blocks away from the Cuzco Cathedral. Our plan is to dedicate the day to Taytacha Temblores. To be there when he emerges from the Cathedral, to be there when he returns from his rounds, and to be there for his blessing.

We will also have to fit in our pre-trek briefing at Greens Restaurant, right in the middle of Taytacha Temblores’ celebration. This Monday is shaping up to be one on the wild side.

Coca

The Incas viewed the coca plant as having divine origin.

Mother Coca was their goddess of health and joy.

She was originally a promiscuous woman who was cut in half by her many lovers. Her body grew into the first coca plant.

Only Inca men were allowed to chew coca leaves.  And only the most privileged.

Coca use was restricted to select classes: nobility, priests, court orators, couriers, favored public workers, and the army.

Today common folk like Sharon and I are able to partake, if we so choose. I suspect we will.

Our hotel serves coca tea, mate de coca, as does our trek. Purportedly it tastes like green tea, slightly bitter with a hint of sweetness.

Loaded with nutrients, the coca leaf contains high levels of calcium, iron, phosphorus, potassium, and vitamins A, B12 and E.

Apparently it is the local cure for many ailments.

Most importantly, it is the local remedy for altitude sickness.

If I am very adventurous, I might even try chewing coca leaves as we hike. When chewed, the leaves are said to produce a pleasurable numbness in the mouth, and to have a pleasant, pungent taste. They are traditionally chewed with lejia to increase the release of the active ingredients from the leaf.

I’ll have to check it out with our trek company. Such behavior might not be considered appropriate. I’ve read that chewing coca is frowned upon by the so-called upper classes.

Chewing coca is an Indian habit.

I suspect that in our case no one would care. Folks might even find it amusing.

First though, I will have to get a hold of the coca leaves and lejia dulce. Lejia is the name for the alkali used to activate the coca by changing the pH of your mouth to be more basic, allowing the coca alkaloids to be absorbed.

We shall see.

Among local locals, trail distance apparently is measured in cocadas. A cocada being the time it takes to exhaust one chew of coca leaves. One cocada is about 40 minutes. Which for locals translates, at high altitude, to roughly two level miles of distance. And that’s hauling a heavy load.

And yes, coca leaves, are the leaves from which cocaine is extracted. And yes, chewing coca and drinking coca tea are legal in Peru. Just not here in the USA.

However, the coca leaf is not cocaine, just as grapes are not wine.

The coca alkaloid content in coca leaves is pretty negligible: between .25% and .77%. Apparently just enough to overcome fatigue, hunger, thirst, and altitude sickness and get a motivational or mood boost.

And produce positive drug tests.

If you are a professional athlete, your drug tests might come back with a cocaine positive.

Also bringing coca tea or leaves home here to the USA is frowned upon. Technically it is considered importing a substance on-par with cocaine.

Since neither Sharon or I are professional athletes and we have no plans to stuff our luggage with coca leaves, I figure we’re safe.

In a curious and hypocritical endorsement of coca, the USA State Department’s website recommends coca tea for altitude sickness, and our Bolivian embassy has been known to serve it to visitors.

2012 Peru Itinerary April 4 – April 19

April 4 – April 5: fly to Peru [overnight]. American Airlines: Boston to Miami, Miami to Lima, Lima to Cuzco. We arrive in Cuzco at 8:45 in the morning. After picking up our bags we will head out to the curb where we will be met by someone from the hotel with our name on a yellow sign.

We will be staying five nights at Hotel Andenes al Cielo in Cuzco. Hotel Andenes is a small boutique hotel in the San Blas district in historic Cuzco.

I found Hotel Andenes on TripAdvisor. It looks great: small, friendly, and located in the heart of the historic district:

“Originally built in the Republicano era of the early 1800s, Andenes al Cielo was a spacious family home meticulously renovated to accommodate our guest rooms [15] as well as a large dining area and cozy guest lounge.  All of our rooms have full private baths with ample hot water and are outfitted with flat screen TVs, telephones and heat.  Each has a separate entrance that opens to either a balcony or patio.  Andenes al Cielo’s deluxe rooms provide even greater comfort with sitting areas, fireplaces and private balconies.”

Besides airport pickup included in the nightly rate is a full buffet breakfast of fresh fruits, breads, and egg dishes, coca tea throughout the day and evening, oxygen on request, wi-fi and luggage storage.

I’m hoping for eucalyptus logs for our fireplace. Memories of California.

The plan for Cuzco is #1 relax and acclimatize. Then as time and energy allow, get out and explore museums, plazas and Inca ruins. All are within walking distance.

Nice short video of Hotel Andenes al Cielo:

[Lots of cut and paste below from MLP literature]

10 April: DAY 1: CUSCO to SALKANTAY LODGE at SORAYPAMPA 3,869 m/12,690 ft

After an early breakfast, we are picked up the Hotel Andenes al Cielo at approx. 7AM by an MLP guide and vehicle for the drive to the Salkantay Lodge in Soraypampa. En route we take a short break to visit the Inca ruins of Tarawasi near the town of Limatambo (approx. 1.5 hrs from Cusco). After leaving Limatambo, we pass through the mountain village of Mollepata where we stop for a short coffee break before ascending a winding mountain road to a place called Marcoccasa (30 minutes from Mollepata by vehicle).
Here, we begin our trek to Soraypampa, on an old route called the “Camino Real” (Royal Path). This is a good opportunity for everyone to acclimate, while enjoying a beautiful six hour trek.

Salkantay Lodge takes its name from the majestic peak at the head of the valley—Mt. Salkantay, the second most sacred peak in Inca mythology and, at 6,270 m (20,600 ft), the highest in the region. After a warm welcome by our friendly staff, we are shown to our rooms and have time to wash-up, before tea and cookies. The trip leader will hold a briefing by the fireplace, followed by aperitifs and dinner.

Trekking Time: Hiking Level: Approximately 6 hours (including picnic lunch en route)

Hiking Level: Moderate
Guests who do not wish to trek may be transported to the lodge by vehicle

11 April: DAY 2: SALKANTAY LODGE at SORAYPAMPA 3,869 m/12,690 ft

Today we take an acclimatization hike on the slopes above the lodge to Lake Humantay, fed by the hanging glaciers of Mt. Humantay. The hike is optional, but the views are amazing, and those brave enough can even go for a dip. We return to the lodge for lunch, after which you may choose to trade the glacial swim for a relaxing soak in our outdoor jacuzzi. Afternoon at leisure. We spend the night at the Salkantay Lodge with gourmet food and warm, comfortable beds. In the evening, the guide briefs us on gear and the itinerary for the following day. All meals are served at the Lodge.

Trekking Time: Approximately 4 hours
Hiking Level: Moderate to Challenging

12 April: DAY 3: SALKANTAY LODGE at SORAYPAMPA 3,869 m/12,690 ft to
WAYRA LODGE at HUAYRACCMACHAY 3,906m/12,812 ft

This is the big day! After an early start, we hike up the Rio Blanco valley, circling Humantay Peak across from Salkantay Peak. The highest point on the trek is the Salkantay Pass at 4,638 m (15,213 ft). At the pass we stop to take in views of snow- capped peaks of the Vilcabamba Range in every direction, the glaciated south face of Salkantay towering above us. We will keep our eyes out for Andean condors, often visible in this area.

From the pass we descend towards Wayra Lodge (“Wayra” means wind; so ‘the place where the wind lives’) our destination for the evening. A hot lunch is served en route; dinner and overnight at the Lodge.

Trekking Time: 6–8 hours (including lunch)
Hiking Level: Challenging, crossing a 4,640m (15,200 ft) mountain pass

13 April: DAY 4: WAYRA LODGE at HUAYRACCMACHAY 3,906m/12,812 ft
to COLPA LODGE at COLPAPAMPA 2,870m/9,414 ft

On this day we enjoy a leisurely breakfast at Wayra Lodge. Then we continue our descent along the left bank of the Salkantay River, through increasingly verdant scenery. We can feel the warm air rising from the jungle, accompanied by colorful butterflies and striking orchids.

Upon arrival at Colpa Lodge we are greeted with a Pachamanca meal, a traditional festive Peruvian meal cooked by layering meat and vegetables with hot stones, and then covering the whole thing up to bake. Colpa Lodge is located on an open plateau at the confluence of three rivers. The outdoor jacuzzi has panoramic views of lush green mountains. We spend the afternoon relaxing or exploring the nearby orchid trail. Dinner and overnight at the lodge.
Trekking Time:    3–4 hours Hiking Level:    Easy to Moderate

14 April: DAY 5: COLPA LODGE at COLPAPAMPA 2,870m/9,414 ft
to LUCMA LODGE at LUCMABAMBA (2,135m/7,003 ft)

Today we hike along the Santa Teresa river valley, through more populated rural areas. We pass through banana, granadilla, and avocado orchards and coffee plantations (said to be one of the best organic coffees in the world). A hot picnic lunch is served by the river. After lunch, we hike another hour before a private vehicle meets us for a short drive to the beginning of the “Llactapata Inca Trail” (30-minute or so).

From the head of the newly restored Inca trail we easily make our way to Lucma Lodge, set in an avocado orchard. Dinner and overnight at the lodge.

Trekking Time:    5–6 hours (including lunch)
Hiking Level:    Moderate to Challenging (because of distance, not terrain)

Hiking Distance: 11 miles [not including 3 mile drive]

15 April: DAY 6: LUCMA LODGE at LUCMABAMBA (2,135m/7,003 ft)
to AGUAS CALIENTES / MACHU PICCHU TOWN (1,900 m/6,232 ft)

After a hearty breakfast, we tackle the last day of our trek. We head uphill for 2-3 hours towards Llactapata Pass (2,736 m/8,974ft), where we come upon a distant but spec- tacular view of Machu Picchu Sanctuary from the southeast, a view few travelers ever get a chance to admire. We take a short break to explore the Llactapata Ruins, which have recently been restored. Lunch is served in a scenic viewpoint, looking out to Machu Picchu. We then begin our final descent to the Aobamba River through lush bamboo forests, orchards and coffee plantations. Aguas Calientes, the town of Machu Picchu, is a short, scenic train ride away. Upon arrival, we check into our lovely hotel [Inkaterra Machu Picchu Hotel ] for celebration dinner with our guide and one last briefing!

Trekking Time: 4–6 hours
Hiking Level:    Moderate to Challenging

****

Inkaterra Machu Picchu Hotel , where to start? I’m not sure I’ll be more excited to get to Machu Picchu or Inkaterra Machu Picchu.

Inkaterra Machu Picchu is not an MLP Lodge, but another beast altogether, catering to the highest end of Machu Picchu’s visitors.

An eco-hotel where money is no object.

Inkaterra Machu Picchu is included in such lists as the 5 best Hotels in Central and South America, Condé Nast Readers Choice Awards, Top 10 World’s Best Eco-Spas, and so forth.

NIce way to end a trek.

“An intimate 85-cottage luxury hotel in sprawling Andean style village within the secluded 12 acres of exquisite beauty, where guests follow stone pathways to their rooms, located in comfortable one- or two-story whitewashed casitas.”

It’s a mystery to me how our trek could throw in the Inkaterra Machu Picchu, even for a night, but it’s included in our flat fee so I’m not complaining. My guess is that the hotel makes it up on extra nights.

There’s even a Werner Herzog angle.

The owner of the Inkaterra is Jose Koechlin von Stein happens to be one of Werner Herzog’s friends.

Here is a link to an interview that Jose did with Werner in 2009.

Jose has known Werner for a long time. Jose is listed as the Peruvian producer of several of Werner’s films: Aguirre, The Wrath of God, (1991/1972); Burden of Dreams”, and Fitzcarraldo (Gold Palm, Cannes 1982), of which Mr. Koechlin is also author.

16 April: DAY 7: MACHU PICCHU SANCTUARY / BACK TO CUSCO [Night @ Hotel Andenes]

After a very early buffet breakfast at the hotel, we make our way to the bus station for the ride up to Machu Picchu Sanctuary (30 min). Our trip leader will give the group an introductory two-hour guided tour of the ruins, after which we have the rest of the morning to explore the site on our own—there is a lot to do and see! Afterwards, we return by bus to Aguas Calientes for a late lunch and to meet our train. The ride from Aguas Calientes to Ollantaytambo takes about one and half hour, and then a private vehicle will drive us back to Cusco (an additional hour and half ). Upon arrival in Cusco (approximately 7 or 8 p.m.), we are dropped off at our hotel.

17 April:  Recover and pack [Night @ Hotel Andenes]

18 April: fly home to Boston [overnight flight]

19 April: Arrive home